25 de Junho

Mozambicans celebrate their Independence Day on June 25 (this year marked 36 years of freedom) which happened to be a Saturday.  Helen and I went to the town square are where people were gathered with drums and banners.  We also happened to be their when the governor of Tete rolled in (in his 6 car entourage, with a BMW….) and stuck around for the national anthem before heading home. 

That Friday, Eduardo (our other roommate) had explained to us the importance heads at parties. Yes. Heads. As in cow head, pig head, goat head.  Apparently, every good party or wedding (or anything worth celebrating) needs a head. So, Saturday morning when we came home we were greeted by a giant cows head.  I’m talking, a full on head. Just chopped off.

Then the testosterone fest started.  Cooking is very much a “woman’s” job in Mozambique, but the head…. That’s a different story. Cooking a head is a man’s job.  So Eduardo, one of his friends from work, the father and teenage son of the family with live near, and some other random boys got to work on the head.  First they built a fire with some bricks set up in it to singe all of the hair off the head. Then spent a good deal of time with an axe chopping the head into small enough pieces to fit in a large pot.  Basically, the entire head was boiled with just water and salt (as not to spoil its natural delicious flavors…. So I was told).  Then, they waited.  Senour Janeiro – the dad of the family, and oldest member of the “head crew”- was presented with a small plate of brain and tongue to taste test.  Once he had given the OK, everyone was served a small bowl.  At this point, Helen  and I were forced to join the bro-fest.  Apparently, head at a party is like cake at a party (everyone has to receive at least a bite…… “you don’t turn down birthday cake, do you?!”) and no one can leave before the head is served. Once again, “do you leave a wedding reception before the bride and groom cut the cake?” (…..got it, Eduardo. I understand that you’re going to make me eat the head).  So, Helen and I sat outside with all of the men and tried the head … which I covered in piri-piri (hot chili sauce).

Not exactly fireworks, popsicles and burgers on the grill… but another interesting moment here in Mozambique.